What is red light therapy and does it work?
Light therapy has long been used for medical and cosmetic treatments, but how is red light therapy different? I spoke with experts to break it all down.
Omnilux Contour Face
$395.00
$395.00
Red light therapy, sometimes called photobiomodulation, applies specific wavelengths of light (usually around 630 nanometers) onto your skin. These wavelengths can penetrate two to three millimeters below the skin, and cause positive reactions in the cells just under your skin, says Dr. Apple Bodemer, a board-certified dermatologist and professor at the University of Wisconsin School of Medicine and Public Health.
Specifically, a type of cell organelle called mitochondria absorbs the light, stimulating the cell, says Dr. Nkem Ugonabo, a board-certified dermatologist at Union Derm in New York City. Stimulated mitochondria are beneficial because they can produce more energy and be more active, increasing collagen production, says Dr. Jaimie DeRosa, founder and lead physician of DeRosa Center Plastic Surgery and Med Spa. Red light therapy can also increase blood circulation to tissues, providing anti-inflammatory benefits, she says.
At least, that’s the idea. There aren’t a lot of high-quality scientific studies available, and many of the red light therapy studies are funded by companies that make red light products, which should be taken with a grain of salt, says Bodemer. But there seems to be enough evidence that red light therapy may be helpful for some people, she says.
taken with a grain of salt, says Bodemer. But there seems to be enough evidence that red light therapy may be helpful for some people, she says.
When shopping for an at-home red light therapy tool, here’s what you should keep in mind, according to our experts:
Our experts recommend speaking with your healthcare provider before using a red light device. Follow your doctor’s and manufacturer’s advice carefully, and know that individual results vary.
Bodemer recommends the Lightstim brand if you’re looking for FDA-cleared light therapy wands. This wand has various wavelengths of red LED light that treat fine lines and wrinkles — the brand also has wands of different light wavelengths for pain relief and acne treatment.
The Lightstim Wrinkles wand is one of the simplest tools on our list: you plug it into a wall outlet for power, and use the on-off switch in the center of the wand for treatment. LightStim recommends using the wand for no more than three minutes per treatment area, five to seven times weekly.
Revive Light Therapy, which comes recommended by Bodemer, makes smaller, lower-priced FDA-cleared wands that target specific areas of skin rather than your whole face. This Lux Collection Glo wand can emit red and blue light, suitable for targeting fine lines or bacteria, respectively. It’s great for targeting skin condition spots like acne and inflammation, and because it’s small and rechargeable, it’s easy to travel with, according to online reviews.
NBC Select updates editor Mili Godio has been using this LED light mask for a few months, which has red, blue and infrared light treatments. The mask itself is one of the most comfortable she’s tested, and the wired remote, while a bit large, makes it easy to choose your treatment and keep an eye on your progress timer.
Aside from comfort, Godio’s favorite feature is actually the under-eye cooling pads. “I have overly puffy under-eyes in the morning, so I love that these pads visibly bring down that puffiness and make me look so much more awake (more than any eye cream or under-eye patch I’ve applied),” says Godio. You can learn more in her Shark Cryoglow review.
Also consider Omnilux for light therapy masks with FDA clearance, says Bodemer. This Contour Face mask uses red and near-infrared light LEDs to target wrinkles, redness and more. The Contour Face mask comes with two head straps and travel adapters for US, UK, EU and Australia, so if you’re a frequent traveler, this might be the best option for you. The brand recommends using it for no more than 10 minutes a day, four to six times a week.
NBC Select associate SEO reporter Ashley Morris wrote our review of the Dennis Gross DRx Spectralite Faceware Pro after receiving a sample from the brand, and still uses it a few times a week. It has both red and blue LEDs to target fine lines and acne, respectively. You can turn on one or both colors per treatment, and its treatment time is three minutes — the shortest of all our recommended masks.
Morris uses both the red and blue lights for her treatments, usually right after her morning shower. “When I use the mask consistently, my skin has a smoother texture and overall clearer complexion,” says Morris. It’s also helped her target mild breakouts and occasional flare ups.
This premium, FDA-cleared light mask is made of silicone, and more comfortably wraps around the contours of your face than hard-plastic alternatives, according to online reviews. While it is much pricier than other options on our list, it has both red and blue light LEDs, comes with travel adapters for the US, UK, EU and Australia and comes recommended by DeRosa. The travel adapters and wireless, rechargeable controller make it well-suited to frequent flyers who want to easily take their skin care routine with them.
Light therapy has been used in medical and scientific fields for decades and you may see doctors use it to combat seasonal affectiveness disorder, treat scars and more in their patients.
More specifically, red light therapy has the potential to be an effective treatment for acne, decreasing healing time after certain procedures, and stimulating hair growth, says Ugonabo.
Red light therapy for general facial rejuvenation is less studied, according to Bodemer. We don’t yet have enough human studies to make definitive claims about reducing wrinkles, plumping skin or treating photoaging.
Red light therapy remains exciting because of the proven positive effects of other forms of light therapy. Infrared light, for example, has been used to treat joint pain for years, says Bodemer.
All of our experts agree that at-home red light therapy is safe, as long as you use an FDA-cleared device at its recommended treatment time.
If you have sensitive skin or are prone to hyperpigmentation, Ugonabo recommends consulting your dermatologist before getting an at-home device.
While most FDA-cleared LED masks have cutouts for the eyes, some do not. For these tools, DeRosa suggests eye protection like goggles or “at the very least, keeping your eyes closed during use.”
The short answer is: it depends. You might see results immediately or never notice a dramatic change, according to experts I spoke with. There are so many variables at play, including your skin, the device(s), the frequency of treatment, if you are using at-home devices or visiting a dermatologist’s office — everything can affect your potential results.
Even so, consistency is key to seeing any type of result. You may see benefits after even a single treatment, but more treatments will tend to show better results over time, says DeRosa. Consistent use in a dermatologist office will produce the best results, says Ugonabo.
Have realistic expectations, and know that red light therapy may or may not lead to positive results, says Bodemer.
Red and blue light operate at different wavelengths and interact with skin differently. Red light has historically been used to treat inflammation, skin roughness, and fine lines, while blue light’s been used to treat acne, as it attacks bacteria.
To understand these terms, you first need to understand how the FDA categorizes medical devices:
The FDA classifies medical devices into three tiers according to the risk and level of regulatory control needed to assure the safety and effectiveness of the product. The tiers are as follows:
Typically, any manufacturer of medical devices must register their company and products with the FDA. Companies making Class III or II devices must notify the FDA of their intent to market a product and submit their product for review.
Class III devices are submitted to the Premarket Approval (PMA) program and, if successfully reviewed, become “FDA-approved.” FDA-approved means that, based on the scientific evidence, the device is safe and effective for its intended use(s). This is the more stringent type of device application required by the FDA.
Class II devices are submitted under the FDA’s 510(k) clearance program, which is less rigorous than the Premarket Approval program. Devices in this program are evaluated based on “substantial equivalence”: meaning the FDA compares the new device to similar, already cleared medical devices on the market. For example, let’s say I design a wrist-based heart rate monitor using essentially the same sensors and design as an existing FDA-cleared product. I could submit my product for FDA-clearance, and if successfully reviewed and found substantially equivalent, the new device becomes “FDA-cleared.” Red light therapy products are typically Class II devices, and are submitted through this program.
At NBC Select, we work with experts who have specialized knowledge and authority based on relevant training and/or experience. We also take steps to ensure all expert advice and recommendations are made independently and without undisclosed financial conflicts of interest.
I’m a reporter at NBC Select who covers technology, fitness and deals, including stories on smartwatches, running shoes, wireless earbuds and more. I also cover home and health tools like blood pressure monitors, smart scales and air purifiers. To better understand the nuances of red light therapy, I spoke with three dermatologists as well as NBC Select staff who’ve tried at-home light treatments.
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